A taste of the country

A change, as they say in the classics, is as good as a holiday. It doesn’t have to be a long, major change or require you to put your life on hold either. Just getting away for a weekend indulgence is proven to be of tremendous benefit to mental health and isn’t bad for regional economies into the bargain. Win, win.

Combining a leisurely weekend drive with quality food and wine, and of course wonderful country hospitality is the perfect remedy for the daily grind. Heading away from major cities and seeking out country gems with a reputation for excellence, allows adventurous travellers the opportunity to better appreciate the ingredients, and the people, that best represent their particular region.

For those living ‘south of the boarder’ in Victoria’s thriving metropolis of Melbourne, this can be achieved in just a few hours of enjoyable driving, allowing you to sample the best country cuisine from Gippsland, the Riverina, and the Central Goldfields. – and meet the devoted chefs and restaurateurs that help to bring the paddock to the plate.

Tinamba Hotel, Tinamba

Just two and a half hours drive east of Melbourne, the Tinamba Hotel first opened in 1874 as a modest weatherboard pub serving the hardworking men and women of the surrounding agricultural districts – a role it played earnestly until it was purchased by restaurateurs Brad Neilson and Damien Gannon in 2009.

The visionary couple lovingly transformed the sleepy hotel into a go-to venue for locals and travellers alike, showcasing regional produce and hospitality with passion and flair before passing the torch to current owners – and proud locals – Simon and Tania Johnson in 2020.

Set in the centre of Tinamba under an avenue of giant oaks, the 150-year-old hotel boasts not only a welcoming country ambience, but arguably the most spectacular menu in all of Gippsland.

Curated to compliment the region’s finest seasonal vegetables, meats, and herbs, the award-winning menu is offered a la carte or as a six-course degustation, to delight dedicated ‘foodies’ and curious casual travellers alike.

Think rolled pork with collard greens and crackling crumble for entree, followed by a rack of venison with parsnip, granola and juniper jus or kangaroo with celeriac, lentils, zucchini, pepperberry and shallots.

Pairings with local wines, beers and spirits highlight the adaptability of the region’s ingredients – along with the venue’s staff, who speak fondly of the Tinamba Hotel, and its cherished clientele.

“The Tinamba Hotel is unique in its offering. It tells a story about what the region is through its food, its place and its service,” says Tinamba Hotel proprietor Simon Johnson.

“This is a food producing area, and we are fortunate to have direct relationships with the growers that allow us to change-up the menu seasonally.

“Almost all of our produce is sourced from within 40 minutes of the kitchen door and that really helps us not only in offering the best ingredients, but in showcasing what I truly believe are world-class local producers.”

According to Johnson, the Tinamba Hotel aims to present local fare in its most authentic form, the Modern Contemporary Australian menu – curated by head chef Rocco Cavallo – allowing the flavours of the region to shine brightly on every palate.

An exceptional venue in its own right, The Tinamba Hotel also serves as a stepping off point to some of the area’s best-known tourist attractions, including the historic gold mining township of Walhalla, the expansive Gippsland Lakes and the charming Old Gippstown open-air museum.

Dinner is available from Wednesday through Saturday with lunch available from Friday to Sunday. Owing to the venue’s popularity, bookings are strongly recommended.

The Mill, Echuca

Heading a couple of hours north of Melbourne will find you in Echuca. Once the largest inland port in Australia, Echuca’s European settlement dates back to 1853, and as one of the most significant ‘crossing towns’ along the mighty Murray River, it played an important role in the movement of goods between Victoria, New South Wales and beyond.

As well as the likes of wool, firewood, meat, fruit, and vegetables shipped by river and rail was flour ground at the five-story Echuca Mill.

Built by Lawrence Kickham in 1881 it operated as a flour mill for 95 years, its wood-fired furnaces and state-of-the-art milling machinery turning two-and-a-half tons of grain per hour.

After its closure as a mill in the 1970s, the building filled a variety of roles before becoming the dining destination it is today. Operated by Gavin and Melissa Cole, The Mill supports regional growers and celebrates both community and connection.

The Coles say The Mill is a cherished, family-run venue that welcomes locals and visitors alike, with its rustic red brick and hand-cut timbers and unpretentious feel – hence its description as a ‘food joint’.

“We bought the building 15 years ago and set up the restaurant a year later,” says Gavin Cole.

“We’re still completely in love with it – it is one of the most unique buildings in regional Victoria,” he says with evident pride.

“From the restaurant side, we’re proud to say that everything we serve is made in-house. From the bread to the sauces, nothing is brought in.

“We are very passionate about the quality of the food we serve at The Mill. We like to think of it as Contemporary Australian with an Asian twist.”

That variety means anything from mussels with a mild Thai coconut curry, roast tomato and roti bread, or perhaps a chicken tortellini with pancetta and leek cream, basil & parmesan is more to your taste. Classic tastes of the country are not left out though, with exquisite lamb tagine, asparagus, pistachios and feta or beef with a BBQ sauce, corn salad and cheddar bread pudding.

Small groups sip local wines and share a few laughs over tapas style plates, while by the fireplace, a young couple bond over what might be a first date. The music is soft and the ambience easy.

“We like to encourage people to sit down and relax, to share food and a nice bottle of red,” says Cole.

“Often we have people who are staying in town come back more than once, which is really lovely … hearing people say, ‘we decided to come back to The Mill again’ is something we always love to hear. I think that in itself says a lot about the food, the building, and of course the staff, who are simply amazing.”

Close to a variety of accommodation options, four of Echuca-Moama’s award-winning golf courses, and the Historic Port of Echuca tourist village to name but a few, The Mill is a must-visit dining experience for anyone visiting the region.

Dinner is available from every night of the week with lunch available from Friday to Sunday. Bookings are highly recommended.

The Surly Goat, Hepburn Springs

Point your vehicle west from Melbourne and in just an hour and a half you will find your self in Hepburn Springs. The very heart to Central Victoria’s spa country, it offers up no end of stunning accommodation options, historic homes and gardens, wonderful wineries and gorgeous galleries. But for our purposes, a visit to The Surly Goat is reason enough for a visit.

Opened in 2016 as a fun-filled local restaurant and bar, The Surly Goat, despite its name, is a welcoming place that serves the kind of food and wine the owners loved to eat and drink on their days off.

It has evolved to serve a changing prix fixe style four course menu of eight to10 items owner and executive chef David Willcocks says allows the Surly Goat team to pursue their passion for seasonality and sustainability, forming great relationships with many small scale, local regenerative producers who supply the kitchen with much of its fruit, vegetables, dairy, eggs and meats.

“I’ve been fortunate enough to work in France and Spain before returning to Hepburn Springs,” Willcocks explains.

“It is our absolutely pleasure to bring that European flair for fine food to the Central Goldfields district, and to showcase the very best fare our local producers have to offer.

“Our produce is predominantly sourced from smaller scale producers and wherever possible is both regenerative and local.

“It’s part of what makes Surly Goat so special, and what helps us to dish up unique, artisanal dishes that celebrate the incredible quality of our regional produce,” he says.

Whether that be fried chicken wings filled with spanner crab, red curried prawns or Altair grass fed Wagyu, the menu is exceptional and ever-changing and the based around the best of seasonal produce.

Dinner is available Thursday through Saturday with lunch available on Saturday. As the venue is on the smaller side, it is strongly recommended that reservations are made to ensure you don’t miss out.