A vine romance

South Africa is one of those places that brings to mind myriad images of wilderness and adventure. From the stepping off point for those embarking on safari, to a place of great historical significance and simply breaking scenery. But it is also a haven for fine wines that attract aficionados from around the globe as well as winning the hearts of those not previously exposed to the wine culture of the region.

The wine lands start 45 kilometres out of Cape Town which many see only on a day trip. This is a big mistake. This is the most kick-back corner of all Africa, and the perfect place to get over jetlag, or chill out at the end of a big South African visit. Take several days to relax and you won’t regret it.

Driving is the way to get around, as public transport is limited. Roads are well-surfaced, traffic light – unless you catch the rush hour leaving Cape Town – and South African drivers courteous, with driving on the left your only challenge.

The scenery is glorious around every bend – as indeed it is almost everywhere in South Africa – and brown tourist signs point the way to cellar doors and tourist attractions.

Stellenbosch is the gateway, named after Simon van der Stel, the wine-loving first governor of the Dutch Cape Colony in the late seventeenth century. Stellenbosch’s leafy, historic town centre will delay you briefly, the recreated houses in Village Museum longer, but you’ll be itching to get out into the blue mountains that give Stellenbosch such a lovely setting.

It’s only 30 kilometres over the Helshoogte Pass to Franschhoek, but it might take you all day. In minutes, you’re into the vineyards. The first cellar door, Tokara, has notable Cabernet Sauvignon blends and an excellent restaurant showcasing contemporary South African cuisine.

A little further on, Boschendal pioneered Blanc de Noir but, even if you aren’t a fan of pink sparkling wine, stop to see the Cape Dutch manor house. Boschendal, established in 1685, is one of South Africa’s oldest wineries, whose cellar door hunkers under giant camphor trees.

Just before you arrive in Franschhoek you’ll pass La Motte, which couldn’t be more different. It has a manor house too, but its cellar door and restaurant sit in contemporary buildings adorned with bold artworks. Shiraz is the drop of choice here, perfectly paired with coal-grilled South Africa beef in the chic brasserie.

Franschhoek or French Corner, named for its seventeenth- and eighteenth-century Huguenot settlers who are celebrated in the town’s museum and monument, is a good base for exploring the region.

Check into La Residence, whose cobbled driveway is lined by white roses and lawns where impala nibble. This is quintessential Franschhoek – a touch of French influence, a liking for explosively colourful art and an infinity pool surrounded by loungers under yellow parasols from which you can gaze out at vineyards and bare-rock mountains.

La Residence has gourmet credentials, too. At the Chef’s Table, chef Emile Myburgh chats and conjures up smoked duck with orange and fennel, rock lobster with Cape Malay curry sauce, and wagyu beef with porcini, accompanied by a fine series of matching wines.

Franschhoek and Stellenbosch are rivals for attention, and not just because the former is best for white wines, the latter for reds. Stellenbosch is the edgier regional centre and university town. Quiet, upmarket Franschhoek is undoubtedly the region’s prettiest town, although a little prim and tourist twee.

Franschhoek is also South Africa’s gourmet capital. Super-stylish Le Petite Colombe on the edge of town is considered one of the world’s top restaurants, but the competition is fierce and you’ll never have a bad meal.

However, the culinary scene is now fizzing in Paarl, the region’s third and until recently overlooked town, which is surrounded by ancient granite outcrops.

To get a spectacular overview of the setting, drive to the hilltop Afrikaans Language Monument, a superb concrete upsweep of enormous grace with views all the way to the sea. Locals like to come up here during the full moon for picnics – the wine land’s surrounding mountains are black against the horizon and brushed with stars.

Paarl is the everyday centre for farmers and workers and, although it has some attractive colonial-era architecture, is rough around the edges. No matter, because everything food-related is now hip and very happening here.

Noop restaurant in the historical centre gets rave reviews for its contemporary take on flavoursome South African comfort food – such as slow-roasted lamb followed by malva (caramelised apricot) pudding – to which has been added a bit of French-influenced flair.

Surrounding cellar doors are just as hot and beloved of Capetonians on weekends – Vrymensfontein for casual Mediterranean food with banging views of distant Table Mountain, Fairview for 50 varieties of artisanal cheese, and Faber for organic, free-range wholesome food.

Faber’s dishes are as prettily plated as anything from a Michelin restaurant. The six-course tasting menu for ZAR 995 ($86) speaks volumes about what good value brilliant food is in South Africa.

Top of the list though, is The Bistro at Brookdale Estate outside town, regularly listed among the top 10 restaurants in South Africa. It is presided over by chef Gary Coetzee, who is a big fan of seasonal and regional ingredients, interesting textures and international influences.

You’ll enjoy dishes such as trout tartare with Thai red-curry dressing, confit duck with Sichuan pepper and sensational salads such as burnt corn and tomato, or broccoli and avocado.

Brookdale Estate, opened only a few years ago, sets new standards for Paarl. Make it your second base in the wine lands. Its glorious Dutch-style manor house has just six bedrooms but two glamorous living rooms, a swimming pool and an unbeatable backdrop of the Klein Drakenstein mountains, rugged above tamed vineyards. It’s a glorious spot in what might be South Africa’s most glorious corner.

All this and nary a lion, elephant or leopard to be seen. It is evidence of the depth of South Africa’s offering and sure to delight the harshest wine critic as well as winning countless new covert to the South African wine culture.