Grape Escape

It’s a world away from the populous east coast of the country, but Western Australia’s striking Margaret River region has won hearts all over the globe. Its irresistible combination of rugged windswept coastline, stirring scenery along with a rich and vibrant wine and food culture have long attracted visitors from around the country and all parts of the world despite the commitment required to get there.

Once in Western Australia though, an easy three hour drive down the coast from Perth – or no less rewarding inland route – delivers you to Margaret River. An area rich in history, impossibly perfect surf and one which has built a reputation as a veritable gourmet haven, with wine lovers spoilt for choice given the wealth of world-class winegrowers calling the region home.

With more than 100 cellar doors to choose from and all of them excellent in their own right, there are any number of ways to tackle the extensive offering during a visit long or short. On a recent trip, wine writer Mike Bennie focused on the many wineries dedicated to producing wine through organic and biodynamic practices, coming back after completing some thorough research with a list of his favourite organic and biodynamic producers in the region.

Cullen

The first winery in Australia to be certified 100 percent carbon neutral, Cullen Wines is at the forefront of viticulture in Margaret River. A biodynamic wonderland it includes not only the vine assets of the property, but market gardens, orchard, sundry botanicals, flowers, native grasses and trees. It’s a place that on immediate connection you realise there’s something special happening agriculturally. Beyond this, the pursuit of winemaking has been supported with conversion to organic farming since the late 1990s with certification to organic and biodynamic following over the next decade. 

Cullen is a true champion of ‘environment first’ practice realised in outstanding wines. Cabernet and chardonnay are at the apex of Cullen, with unnervingly consistent releases that sit at the top of Australia’s best wines overall. Don’t miss pet nats and a currency of increasingly excellent orange wine. Dining at Cullen is a regional highlight, with the focus on produce from the biodynamic market gardens of the estate.

Blind Corner

Blind Corner was established in 2005 with the purchase of a vineyard in the parish of Wilyabrup. While some international journeyman winemaking followed, husband and wife Ben and Naomi Gould phased out irrigation and chemical farming at their property for a triumphant return in 2009. A subsequent vineyard was purchased in late 2014, again, the conversion to organic farming was inherent and certification occurred (organic and biodynamic) for not only the vineyard, but the winery and bottling line. 

Its suite of wines range from classic Margaret River staples through to more dreamy but exceptionally made, avant garde styles. The white grape varieties of aligote and chenin blanc excel, while orange wines and pet nats are likewise outstanding. The cellar door experience is casual and very informative, delivering a broad spectrum of wines and a highlight on a visit to the region – certainly time well spent touring on the excellent Margaret River Organic Wine Trail.

Si Vintners

The charismatic wines and ‘natural farming’ methods of Si Vintners are the brainchild of Sarah Morris and Iwo Jakimowicz. The couple developed broad experience in winemaking globally, with a focus on old, Spanish vineyards, before purchasing their property in the south of Margaret River - an old vine site set amongst bucolic Australian bush and dusty roads. The pair farm two sites with the estate (home) blocks now certified organic – the winemaking done by hand, with minimal intervention and no additives. 

Once leading lights of more eccentric wine styles, the duo have settled into more fine wine paradigm releases, with outstanding, fuller flavoured, minerally chardonnay a highlight. A rustic, but very charming cellar door spills onto grassed lawns where small-scale food events occur periodically.

McHenry Hohnen

McHenry Hohnen is certified biodynamic with a strong commitment to holistic and closed loop farming. The wines have accelerated in quality in recent years with a co-attribution to increased fruit quality from these enhanced farming practices. Chardonnay is at the top of the tree for McHenry Hohnen, with an art for minerally, tense styles. Creative blends also fall into the range, revealing not only fine detail and finesse of texture, but a drinkability and interest that draws in wine connoisseurs. McHenry Hohnen has been at the forefront of Margaret River fine wine almost since inception and continues to draw gaze for its increasing commitments to sustainability and regenerative practices.

Vasse Felix

While Vasse Felix is a name synonymous with some of Australia’s finest fine wines and of course as a pioneer of Margaret River wine region, it’s more recent contributions to sustainability and organics is bringing additional interest to the wine producer. A commitment to organic certification (2020 certified for some blocks, with more in conversion) has energised the high quality, stalwart producer and brought focus to smaller plots of grapes excelling under this practice. Aside from this, Vasse Felix continues a commitment to outstanding local produce for its high profile restaurant, works hard at its outstanding cellar door experience and offers a slew of engaging and unique events. It’s a not-to-be-missed wine producer in Margaret River, with sustainability credentials on the rise.