The feast

As the sun sets over Castle Bay, squeaky white sand blushes pink. There’s not a ripple on the water of this magical corner of South Western Australia. Which is lucky, really, because a tsunami tonight at the Audi Opening Party of the Margaret River Gourmet Escape, on Cape Naturaliste, would blitz a significant number of stars in the culinary universe. 

We’re talking about the kind of stars that don’t need a surname - Nigella (Lawson) and Rick (Stein) for example, and some of the biggest names of the international food scene - Joan Roca, chef/owner of the World’s 50 Best number one restaurant, El Celler de Can Roca; the “World's Best Female Chef” Dominique Crenn; Mugaritz’s Andoni Luis Aduriz; Italo-Argentinian Mauro Colagreco, chef-patron of Restaurant Mirazur in France; and Australia’s favourite chef export David Thompson, of Nahm in Bangkok. Stars with the kind of pulling power that bring visitors from all over Australia to hear them speak or watch them cook, eat their food or perhaps bump into them on the beach or at a local cafe. 

The beach tonight is awash with barefooted cooking talent, their egos left in the carpark.

They are all here for the fifth annual Escape presented by Audi, "without question, the greatest food event on the planet,” according to Marco Pierre White, English chef and restaurateur who was star of the show last year. The Escape embraces the Cape region, with sold-out signature lunches and dinners at premium wineries such as Cullen, Vasse Felix and Voyager Estate, a Gourmet Village at Leeuwin Estate  – the festival hub – and satellite events from end-to-end of this foodie paradise.  

The Australian ‘talent’ this year was equally stellar. Sydneysiders Peter Gilmore of Quay, Ross Lusted of The Bridge Room, Guillaume Brahimi; and Firedoor’s Lennox Hastie, are here, along with Melburnians Guy Grossi, Andrew McConnell and Scott Pickett. Western Australia’s own Jed Gerrard of Perth’s acclaimed Wildflower restaurant, Seth James of Wills Domain; and television chef Adam Liaw. 

It’s a broad church of food celebrity and hard-core restaurant focused chefs.

This year, and every year thus far, Gourmet Escape was blessed with clear blue skies, a light breeze and balmy days. Audis dominated Cave’s Road, the region’s winding gum-lined main artery that slices between some of the world’s finest vineyards. “Look out for the badged Audis” a guest was overheard advising at the entrance to one of the events, “they’re the ones with the VIPs in them”. 

In all, between central and satellite, there were 40 events spread over 34 locations across the Cape, beginning and ending with festival favourite The Audi Gourmet Beach BBQ, a quintessential celebration of Western Australia’s laid-back coastal lifestyle and produce. Dunsborough’s Castle Bay was transformed with tipis and luxe furnishings, bars, barbecues and live music against the backdrop of this stunning beach. 

Guests mingled with celebrities and friends equally, bespoke cocktails made with artisan gin crafted exclusively for the festival by Dinner by Heston’s Ashley Palmer-Watts and Tony Conigliaro from The Drink Factory (UK) in collaboration with award-winning local distillery Limeburners in hand. Each night the BBQ was cooked and served by celebrity tong-masters including Movida’s Frank Camorra, seafood legend Rick Stein, and Audi ambassador Guillaume Brahimi.

Other highlights included Feast in the Forest, held in Leeuwin Estate’s vintage barn at the heart of a magnificent karri forest. Famous chefs Ross Lusted from The Bridge Room in Sydney and Lennox Hastie from Firedoor sweated and stoked enormous fire pits to create food of staggering quality and nuance. The warm, still nights scented by native jarrah smoke and eucalypts were the perfect way to experience Margaret River’s finest produce, from Augusta whiting, to kingfish, local asparagus, and turnips with sesame, yoghurt, hay smoked hens eggs, and White Rocks veal accompanied by Leeuwin Estate’s delicate wines. 

Organisers IMG Culinary estimate more than 20,000 festival tickets were sold. The Gourmet Village was the central hub. Guests enjoyed brunches and masterclasses, perennial favourite Margaret River Icon Tastings, Table of Eight and the Chef’s Theatre, as well as food, drink and hospitality provided by some of Western Australia’s with top restaurants, food producers and winemakers and brewers.  

Numerous collaboration dinners and lunches were held for those interested in more formal and high-end dining. Wills Domain head chef Seth James hosted Dominique Crenn, one of the world’s leading chefs, to deliver one of the high points of the festival.  Their menu featured WA marron and abalone. “I came here with no expectations”, said Crenn, “but I’m blown away by Western Australia, it’s quite magical here.” 

Crenn was just one of the many chefs - both international and local - making a maiden voyage to the MR region. It would seem that in terms of the incredibly favourable  impression made on these influencers, investment by Tourism Western Australia was justified.

As Pierre White said of his experience in 2015, “chefs from every single part of the earth are here. When they leave, it's life changing. Why? Because they've been introduced to something truly magical.” 

Seems nothing much has changed. 

John Lethlean is food and restaurants writer with The Australian