Flights of fancy

Although Minaret Station near Lake Wannabe is accessible only by helicopter, it provides the ultimate base from which to explore not only the surrounding area but all the wonders of the great South Island.

On this particular morning we are leaving our remote luxury accommodation for a trip to New Zealand’s remote Fiordland – but then nothing is really remote when you travel by helicopter. 

We’re heading for picturesque Dusky Sound/Tamatea in the southwest bottom corner of the South Island.

It’s a spectacular flight south over Glenorchy following riverbeds shrouded in fog – pilot Mark Deaker pointing out mountains, peaks and landmarks – classic Lord of the Rings territory, en route. An hour later, at Te Anau, we stop to refuel and pick up our skipper for the day, Chris Lemin, an eager local amateur historian. 

Taking off again on another scenic flight, we head further southwest, dipping between mountain ranges and following Cook Channel to a floating helipad in Cascade Cove, a permanent private mooring in Dusky Sound, where we transfer to nifty Storm Jet for our day’s adventure with Shadowland Expeditions.

We are on a full-day Dusky Sound Experience from Minaret Station, one of New Zealand’s most luxurious alpine lodges located at an elevation of 900m in a beautiful glacial valley at the base of Mt Aspiring National Park. And now here, in Dusky Sound, steep mountainous misty fiords retreat into the quiet early morning distance. 

Skipper Chris is passionate about the region and impresses with his knowledge. Dusky Sound comprises more than 700 islands and is considered New Zealand’s most important habitat. In this isolated wind-swept location, accessible only by air and sea, pods of dolphins frolic and fur seals play in this pristine environment.

Seemingly, we have the sound to ourselves as we round Anchor Island and learn that it was here, in Pickersgill Harbour, English mariner Captain James Cook moored and sheltered his ship, the HMS Resolution, for almost five weeks in 1773. Following a rigorous 122-day voyage in the Pacific and sub-Antarctic waters, the three-masted sloop was in need of repairs and his men in need of a rest. 

According to Chris, the Resolution was towed in from Anchor Island by Cook’s crew using two long boats, a protruding branch of a sturdy and long-living rata tree acting as a natural gangplank. It’s still there today – plus the stumps of several totora trees his men cut down for masts.

At Pickersgill Harbour, an engraved plaque at the shore’s edge depicts the Resolution moored by the rata branch and tells the story. We walk the few metres to Astronomer’s Point from where Cook ‘fixed’ the position of New Zealand and ponder those ancient tree stumps now covered with moss and undergrowth. We watch a pair of Dusky dolphins surface and dive – just like Cook and his men might have done all those years ago.

Cook named many local features and landmarks – Pickersgill Harbour after one of his lieutenants, nearby Supper and Crayfish Islands, Anchor Island – even Dusky Sound, since he had arrived here on an earlier occasion in 1770 at dusk. 

As Storm Jet rounds forested Luncheon Island, a colony of New Zealand fur seals scarper out of the shallows and on to nearby rocks.

Just as Captain James Cook did back in 1773, we think it a good spot to lunch – so moor and drop fishing lines over the side in Luncheon Cove. Fish nibble immediately – first a couple of desirable blue cod, a very fine terakihi, a few more blue cod, and then – a seven-gill shark as big as me! 

But it is the half dozen crayfish that we lift from pre-baited lobster pots that we know will put a smile on the chef’s face back at Minaret Station for dinner. 

Food at the Alpine Lodge is excellent. Considering its remoteness, the variety, quality of produce and high standard of food is impressive. The Mountain Kitchen boasts two executive chefs – Alastair Wilson and Ivan Savae who take it in turns to treat guests to their exceptional cuisine. 

Executive head chef Wilson has cooked at some of New Zealand’s top restaurants, before becoming chef to the Ambassador at the New Zealand Embassy in Brussels, followed by a stint consulting to Air New Zealand and now here at Minaret Station. 

Menus might feature crayfish, blue cod, paua and whitebait from Stewart Island, the West Coast and Fiordland which Alastair pairs with the freshest local produce including stone-fruit, berries and Manuka honey from growers in Central Otago’s basin. An extensive range of premium NZ wines is offered, many from boutique winemakers in the region.

Typical dinners begin with canapés served fireside in the lounge, perhaps cherry tomatoes, goat’s cheese and white anchovies or crayfish popcorn with Japanese mayo and nigella seeds. Entrée might be polenta-crumbed Bluff oysters with beurre blanc and chorizo followed by pan-fried gurnard with celeriac puree, nori butter, apple and fennel. Main courses often hero the station’s own succulent roasted racks of free-range venison, pan-fried Angus beef or slow-roasted shoulder of Lumina lamb from Minaret Station’s own 50,000-acre farm. 

Minaret Station is part of the Wallis family-owned and operated The Alpine Group that dates back to the early 1960s when local icon Sir Tim Wallis, aka ‘Hurricane Tim’, first thought to introduce international guests to New Zealand’s unique pristine wilderness.

This was my second visit to the ‘high country’ lodge – the first about 11 years ago soon after it opened. Not a lot has changed – the family staying with their initial vision of offering guests the unique experiences the Wallis family of four boys had as children being raised as High Country lads. 

The main lodge boasts the Mountain Kitchen, communal lounge with open fire, dining room and comfortable well-stocked library. Family art, artefacts and comfortable club chairs, sink-into lounges with checked woollen cushions and cosy throw rugs give the feeling of being guests of landed gentry.

There are still just the four double accommodations linked to the main lodge by sturdy walkways, but the concept of the lodgings has changed. Initially, it was ‘luxury under canvas’ featuring African-style safari tents.  

However, a few cyclones over the years, made it necessary to change the outdoor structures to become smartly designed chalets. These still feature the same luxurious bathroom, comfortable lounge, entry office area and spacious king bedroom. Then there is the wide balcony with ready-to-jump-into hot tub, electric brazier and outdoor furniture for communing with nature and thoughtfully, some lambswool rugs to keep out the mountain chill.

Earlier, I recall hiking through golden tussock grass to a gushing waterfall just below the lodge. Today, several kilometres of weathered boardwalk along the valley floor turn hikes into walks, beckoning guests to discover trickling Estuary Burn or to venture further into the hills to another mountain-fed waterfall.

New hiking trails have been created and a growing list of private full-day guided experiences developed to Fiordland, Milford Sound, Aoraki Mt Cook and other National Parks, plus an extensive range of helicopter touring and backcountry adventures such fly-fishing, hiking, mountain biking, guided hunting and exceptional heli-skiing in winter. 

The day in Dusky Sound is just one of many experiences available to Minaret’s discerning guests as well as guests from Wanaka and Queenstown, delivered through Shadowland Expeditions. Because it offers such an extraordinary opportunity to explore this scenic, historic and remote destination, the concept is being developed under a new independent brand to include customised overnight accommodation on a luxury motor launch for up to eight guests. Shadowland Expeditions’ overnight experiences are scheduled to launch at the end of the year.