Grape expectations

Part One: An irresistible combination of exotic locations, fine wine and breathtaking scenery. 

Stopping off at cellar doors isn’t the only reason to tackle wine routes: you’ll also find some of the world’s most beautiful scenery for a luxurious drive in the slow lane.

Brian Johnston

15 September, 2017


Stellenbosch, South Africa

Easy driving out of Cape Town brings you, over a few leisurely days, around to the celebrated South African vineyards. Especially along the scenic R310 to Franschhoek and R44 to Paarl, they are marked by signs featuring a stylised wine barrel. Several cellar doors are found at Dutch-era manors scattered around the elegant colonial town of Stellenbosch. Gardens exploding with hydrangeas and neatly-pegged vines are a pleasing domestic contrast to rugged mountains in the background. Top stops include eighteenth-century manor Vergelegen, Simonsig for excellent Cabernet Sauvignon matched with ostrich fillet, and historic Boschendal, hunkered under giant camphor trees.

"Several cellar doors are found at Dutch-era manors scattered around the elegant colonial town of Stellenbosch."

"You’ll find cellar doors lodged in baroque villas and ultra-contemporary buildings."

Saint-Emilion, France

The prestigious vineyards spread around this town east of Bordeaux: Pomerol, Vieux Château Certan and – consistently rank among the world’s most expensive wines – Pétrus and Cheval Blanc. You’ll find cellar doors lodged in baroque villas and ultra-contemporary buildings; the shiny red box of Château La Dominique was designed by Jean Nouvel. All roads lead to Saint-Émilion, an elegant, World Heritage hilltop town of golden limestone, ripe with French stereotypes: cobbled squares, cheerful cafés, gourmet restaurants. Stop by Comptoir des Vignobles for tasting plates and a fabulous collection of top wines dating back to 1945.

Granite Belt, Australia

The Granite Belt is one of Queensland’s more unusual destinations, not least for its high altitude, four seasons and vineyards. Beautiful national parks offer marvellous scenery and great granite outcrops. The emerging wine region has some 50 cellar doors of growing reputation, such as Ballandean and Symphony Hill. Drive the tourist trail around ‘Strange Bird’ wineries and discover quirky grape varieties such as Barbera, Mourvedre and Durif. The region is also known for vinegar, stone fruit and good restaurants, including the student-run bistro at the Queensland College of Wine Tourism in Stanthorpe.

"Drive the tourist trail around ‘Strange Bird’ wineries and discover quirky grape varieties such as Barbera, Mourvedre and Durif."

"Wine has been produced here since Roman times, with Riesling – some world class – now predominant."

Moselle Valley, Germany

Rhine tributary the Moselle is an intimate river flanked by villages rather than towns. Drives along either valley side are never short of gorgeous, with vineyards tumbling into the water (figuratively speaking). Wine has been produced here since Roman times, with Riesling – some world class – now predominant. At Cochem, visit Reichsburg Castle high above the town on a river bend that is surely one of Europe’s most romantic spots. Drives are glorious all the way along the Moselle to flower-filled Bernkastel, from which you can detour to the ancient German town Trier or little Luxembourg.

Okanagan Valley, Canada

The vineyards of British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, 400 kilometres east of Vancouver, are concentrated around the towns of Kelowna and Penticton, where a combination of mountain, lake, pine forests and surprising semi-desert landscapes combine to lovely effect, seemingly more Spanish than Canadian. The warm, arid region supports lavender fields and fruit orchards and some 200 vineyards linked by scenic roads. (And trails: the Okanagan Valley is a world-class mountain-biking destination.) Good cellar doors include Mission Hill Winery, Tantalus Vineyards and Summerhill Pyramid Winery for tasty lake fish accompanied by white wine and panoramic views.

"The warm, arid region supports lavender fields and fruit orchards and some 200 vineyards linked by scenic roads."