In residence

Bringing the world’s number-one restaurant to Sydney for just a four week stint at Sydney’s Bather’s Pavilion is no small feat. The logistics and level of detailed forward planning alone would put a NASA launch to shame, yet the undertaking promises an unmatched dining experience for those fortunate enough to sample the Single Thread experience during its residency on the shores of Balmoral beach.

Certainly it is the culinary event of the year, having the three-Michelin-star SingleThread Down Under, bringing the unique culinary vision of Kyle and Katina Connaughton that has earned their California-based Single global acclaim and the title of the world’s joint number-one restaurant in the culinary bible, La Liste.

In Sonoma County, 70 kilometres north of San Francisco, Single Thread has become an institution, opened by the Connaughtons in 2016 and earning its three Michelin stars just two years later. It is an holistic concept built around a culinary experience that begins with produce grown on the its own 10 hectare farm overseen by Katina Connaughton, before entering the kitchen where Kyle weaves his magic born of years training in kitchens around the world. Single Thread is an immersive experience that includes the restaurant itself, the farm, a winery and inn-style guest accommodation. Every aspect of the property showcases the Connaughton’s philosophy on food and indeed life itself and includes a collaboration with Audi USA as the official partner of Single Thread that sees Audi e-tron vehicles on hand for guests to explore the surrounding countryside in emission-free comfort.

The culinary offering is driven by the produce grown on the farm and by the many influences that have moulded Connaughton’s own distinct style.

Having worked in kitchens in the US and extensively in Japan, Kyle Connaughton has also worked with culinary luminaries like French chef Michel Bras and under Heston Blumenthal at the Fat Duck to develop his eclectic style. But it is Kyle’s many years in Japan that exert the most tangible influence over his approach to food and dining.

The Japanese philosophy of Omotenashi – selfless, anticipatory service – informs every aspect of the experience. The 10-course tasting menu guests will enjoy during the Bathers’ Pavilion residency takes the same format as that served at the Sonoma restaurant, starting with a hassun-style course of delicate individual items showcasing the absolute peak of fresh ingredients from the day, presented on custom stands adorned with freshly cut flowers intricately arranged by Katina. Nothing short of culinary art.

But the stage is set before that first course is even served, the Bathers’ dining room adorned with freshly cut flowers, once again masterfully arranged by Katina, along with elements brought from the restaurant’s Southern Highlands farm that also provides some of the menu ingredients – incorporating gnarled fallen branches replete with years of lichen moss – all used to create a sense of place, just as it would be done in Sonoma.

Indeed the table settings, cutlery and flatware have all been faithfully reproduced as per Single Thread in California, with no less than four local artisan producers charged with creating the bespoke plates, bowls and serving vessels to be used during the residency. The aforementioned multi-level serving trays for the hussar-style starters were produced in house and additional items have been sourced directly from Japan to ensure the absolute sense of authenticity that lies at the very heart of the Connaughton’s whole ethos.

This event has been months in the planning, with an attention to detail that is difficult for mere mortals to comprehend. Bathers’ Pavilion Managing Director, Jessica Shirvington, has previously overseen residencies by L’Enclume last year and in 2023, so this level of preparation is not new.

Nevertheless, a shared ethos between the Connaughtons and Bathers’ Pavillion has served to created a feeling of ‘kinship’ that made the collaboration possible in the first instance and has facilitated the level of preparation required to make it work.

It’s very much about authenticity and creating something very special for each and every guest according to the Connaughtons. And while the essence of Single Thread is present in every detail, this is not an attempt to  simply replicate the celebrated Californian restaurant in another location. Rather this is a unique application of the Single Thread philosophy and approach to every aspect of the dining experience, mindful of the Australian setting, integrating new ingredients and the very essence of the Australian setting itself into the equation.

To that end, members of Bathers’ Pavilion team, including Executive chef Aaron Ward, spent time in California becoming equated with how the Connaughtons and Single Thread operate, allowing them now to work seamlessly with the 12-strong team brought out from California for the event.

“It is very much an experience of a time and place,” says Kyle Connaughton.

“We want to reflect this location through the SingleThread lens,” he says. Certainly there is plenty of common ground, with similar climates in southern California and New South Wales and many shared ingredients in the form of local produce. To that end, planning of ingredients go back a full growing season, working with select local Australian growers ahead of time to provide produce for the residency.

“In some ways it’s as if we’re going back in time,” says Kyle Connaughton, referencing the fact that many produce timelines for Australia were planned back in the California winter.

Then there are those plants and proteins peculiar to Australia that will be integral to the Australian Single Thread menu. Rangpur limes – bright orange citrus fruit with a strong lime zest – are not present in California and present interesting possibilities, while working with the rich Australian seafood offering, the likes of Marron and King George Whiting offer new opportunities to apply the Single Thread approach to these local delicacies. Translated to plate, think Manjimup Marron Owan – Chawan-Mushi, purple Brassicas and rangput lime, or tempura Phillip Bay King George Whiting and Kent pumpkin. Aquna Murray Cod Ibushi-gin, with nettle miso, barley crepe and Shio Koji vinaigrette. The 10 courses paired with local and Californian wines as well as finest Japanese Sake to produce a culinary event not seen before in the Harbour City.

And ‘event’ seems an appropriate way of describing what guests can expect during the July/August residency, with every element designed and executed to deliver the experience for which SingleThread is internationally renowned.

Certainly it’s about the food, the meticulous preparation and the almost otherworldly attention to detail, but there is so munch more to Single Thread dining.

“Ultimately we are curating every aspect of a space for people to enjoy time with friends,” says Katina. The end goal is the overarching experience and for people to have a sense that it was ‘time well spent’. And yet like so many seemingly simple goals, it is one that requires a true mastery to achieve.

The Singe Thread residency at Bathers’ Pavilion runs from July 28th until August 23rd.